Notes from

El Piano Damasquinado

     The title sounds cool enough to be the start of a mystery novel, but in fact, this is the story of a search for a Spanish souvenir.

   The clanging Cathedral church bells announced the dawn of another Sunday in Toledo, Spain. The shopkeepers would soon be raising the gates of their storefronts to prepare for the day's tourists and local shoppers. Justo, my Spanish host father, was preparing ingredients for the traditional Sunday afternoon meal, paella. (Click here for a recipe.)

   It was my last weekend in Toledo, and I needed a small memento to remind me of Spain. Since the first week, I had eyed the miniature pianos among the other damasquinado engraved pieces such as swords, clocks, plates, and picture frames.

   My host mother, Rosario, and I set out in the walled city's cobblestone streets on a mission for a Spanish souvenir. Now, you would think with the sheer number of stores selling the same things, that the price would be fairly competitive. However, most of the damasquinado items in the stores didn't have price tags, and like car shopping, there was room for negotiation. Unlike what I've heard about Mexico, Spain isn't much of a bartering place, so I was bit surprised.

   Rosario and I went to no fewer than seven shops in the city, negotiating pesetas in Mach five Spanish. After wearing our soles a bit thinner running around Toledo and getting quoted the 'tourist price' at several stores, Rosario finally said "I'm Toledano. Quit the runaround on price and give us a fair deal or we'll shop elsewhere." Thanks to Rosario, I bought the piano souvenir at half the highest price we were quoted. Like my grandpa always says, "It pays to shop around." And, I might add that "it also pays to shop with a local." Oh, and the paella? It was delicioso.
 

                           What is damasquinado?
     Damascening is the application of gold or silver on iron or steel to produce a decorative pattern. Around the 15th century it became popular in Europe, and currently, the art work produced in Toledo, Spain, is famous all over the world. Using sharp steel cutting tools, artisans cover the surface of the object lengthwise and across fine, narrow grooves. Then, gold threads or fine wires are taken and the decorative pattern is drawn. In order for the gold wire to permanently stay in the grooves, it is hammered with a small steel punch.